Bangkok

Bangkok is intense, generous and endlessly surprising. Gilded temples, canals and markets coexist with contemporary art spaces and rooftop bars, and the Chao Phraya River gives the city its historic spine.

For food, few cities compare. Street food is a way of life, regional Thai cooking is represented at the highest level, and a new generation of chefs has made Bangkok one of the most dynamic dining capitals in Asia.

The cool season, from November to February, is the most comfortable time to visit. March to May is very hot, and the rainy season runs from around June to October, with heavy downpours but lush surroundings.

The BTS Skytrain and MRT subway avoid the city's heavy traffic, and river boats, including the Chao Phraya Express, are a practical and scenic way to reach the old city. Suvarnabhumi Airport is linked to the centre by the Airport Rail Link, while Don Mueang serves mainly regional flights.

The riverside is Bangkok's most atmospheric address. Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok is a legend, and Capella Bangkok offers a newer, more intimate take on riverside luxury. In the centre, Rosewood Bangkok is a sculptural tower close to the shopping districts.

Sorn is a reference for southern Thai cuisine, Sühring for modern German cooking, and Le Normandie at Mandarin Oriental for classic French dining. Street food in Chinatown, along Yaowarat Road, is essential.

The Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew, Wat Pho and its reclining Buddha, and Wat Arun across the river are essential. The Jim Thompson House, the canals of Thonburi and the markets, from flower markets to Chatuchak at the weekend, reveal other sides of the city. Contemporary art is well represented at galleries across the city.

The currency is the Thai baht. Dress modestly for temples, with shoulders and knees covered. Many nationalities can enter visa-free for short stays; check current rules before travel. Heat and humidity are constant, so plan outdoor visits for early morning or late afternoon.