Hangzhou

Hangzhou has inspired Chinese poets and painters for centuries. West Lake, with its causeways, pagodas and willow-lined shores, is one of the most celebrated landscapes in China, and the hills around it are covered with tea plantations and temples.

Its cuisine is light and refined, built around freshwater fish, bamboo shoots, Longjing tea and slow-braised pork, and the city is home to some of China's most serene resorts.

Spring, from March to May, is the loveliest season, with blossoms around the lake and the first Longjing tea harvest. Autumn, from September to November, brings osmanthus blossom and clear days. Summers are hot and humid, and winters cool and damp.

Hangzhou has a modern metro, and taxis and ride-hailing apps are widely available. The lake itself is best explored on foot, by bicycle or by boat. High-speed trains link Hangzhou East station with Shanghai in around one hour. Hangzhou Xiaoshan International Airport is linked to the city by metro.

Amanfayun is set in a valley of Buddhist temples and tea fields, and Four Seasons Hotel Hangzhou at West Lake offers gardens on the lakeshore. Fuchun Resort, outside the city, sits among tea plantations above the Fuchun River.

Louwailou on the lake is the historic address for West Lake vinegar fish and Dongpo pork. Jin Sha at Four Seasons serves refined Hangzhou cuisine, and Longjing Manor, among the tea hills, is known for its seasonal, farm-sourced menus.

Walk or cycle the Su and Bai causeways, visit Lingyin Temple and the Feilai Feng grottoes, climb Leifeng Pagoda and spend time in the Longjing tea villages. The China National Tea Museum and the Xixi Wetlands offer quieter perspectives.

The currency is the renminbi (yuan), and mobile payments dominate. West Lake is very busy on weekends and public holidays; go early in the morning. Check current visa rules before travel.