Chengdu

Chengdu is one of the great food cities of the world. Sichuan cooking is far more subtle than its reputation for heat suggests, built on layered flavours such as mala, the combination of chilli and numbing Sichuan pepper, and on dozens of distinct seasoning profiles.

The city's pace is famously relaxed, best experienced in its teahouses and parks, and it is also the gateway to the giant pandas, to Mount Qingcheng and to the Dujiangyan irrigation system.

Spring, from March to May, and autumn, from September to November, are the most pleasant seasons. Summers are hot and humid, and winters cool and often grey. Chengdu is frequently overcast, which the locals treat as part of its charm.

Chengdu has an extensive metro network, and taxis and ride-hailing apps are widely available. The city is served by Chengdu Tianfu International Airport and Chengdu Shuangliu International Airport, both linked to the centre by metro. High-speed trains connect Chengdu with Chongqing in around one to two hours.

The Temple House, next to the Daci Temple, is the city's most distinctive hotel. Niccolo Chengdu offers high-rise views above the shopping district, and Six Senses Qing Cheng Mountain is a wellness retreat in the foothills outside the city.

Yu Zhi Lan is a reference for refined Sichuan tasting menus. Chen Mapo Tofu is associated with the origins of one of Sichuan's most famous dishes, and Mi Xun Teahouse at The Temple House serves elegant vegetarian cooking. Street snacks such as dan dan noodles and zhong dumplings are essential.

The Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding is best visited early in the morning. The Wenshu Monastery, People's Park and its teahouse, and the Kuanzhai Alley area reveal the city's traditional side. The Wuhou Shrine and the Jinsha Site Museum are rewarding for history, and Mount Qingcheng and Dujiangyan make an excellent day trip.

The currency is the renminbi (yuan), and mobile payments dominate. Spice levels can usually be adjusted on request. Many international websites and apps are restricted in mainland China. Check current visa rules before travel.