Luang Prabang
Laos · Southeast Asia
The old royal capital of Laos, a town of monasteries and colonial villas between two rivers, now two hours from Vientiane by train.
Why visit
Why visit Luang Prabang
Go for a town that has kept its scale. There are more than thirty monasteries on a peninsula that can be walked in half an hour, and between them streets of two-storey houses with shutters and balconies, many now small hotels and cafés.
Go also for the rhythm of the day: the monks' alms round at dawn, the river in the afternoon, the view from Mount Phousi at sunset and the night market after dark. Our guide to Luang Prabang sets out three days.
Explore
What to see
Wat Xieng Thong. The finest of the monasteries, founded in 1560 at the tip of the peninsula, with roofs that sweep almost to the ground and a mosaic of a tree of life on its rear wall.
The Royal Palace Museum. The former palace holds the Phra Bang, the gold Buddha image from which the town takes its name.
Mount Phousi. The hill at the centre of the town, climbed by steps for the view over both rivers.
The alms round. At dawn the monks and novices walk in file to receive food. It is a religious act, and visitors should watch from a distance in silence or take part properly.
Out of town. The Kuang Si waterfall, with its turquoise pools, lies to the south. The Pak Ou caves, filled with Buddha figures, are reached by boat up the Mekong. Travellers with longer can continue to the Plain of Jars.
Hotels
Where to stay in Luang Prabang
Rosewood Luang Prabang lies in a forest valley outside the town. La Résidence Phou Vao stands on a hill above the town. Within the old town, many of the colonial houses have become small hotels.
Dining
Where to eat in Luang Prabang
Lao cooking is built on sticky rice, fresh herbs, grilled river fish and laap, a salad of minced meat or fish. The town's French past survives in its bakeries and cafés, and the night market has food stalls in the lanes beside it.
Experiences
Experiences in Luang Prabang
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Before you go
Practical information
Best time to visit
November to February is cool and dry. March and April are hot and hazy with smoke from field burning. The rainy months from June to September are green and quiet.
Getting around
The Laos-China railway links the town with Vientiane and with Kunming, and there are flights from Bangkok, Hanoi and Siem Reap. The old town is walked or cycled. Boats cross and travel the Mekong, and cars or tuk-tuks reach the waterfall.
Practical notes
Three days are enough for the town and its surroundings. Dress with shoulders and knees covered in the monasteries and at the alms round. Rice for offerings should be bought from the market or through a hotel.
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