Hanoi
Vietnam
Vietnam's graceful capital of lakes, French colonial avenues and the lively Old Quarter, and the home of pho, bun cha and some of Asia's most distinctive street food.
Why go
Hanoi is older, calmer and more atmospheric than Saigon. Its lakes, tree-lined boulevards and French colonial villas give it a unique character, while the narrow streets of the Old Quarter still bustle with trade and street food.
Northern Vietnamese cooking is subtle and precise, and Hanoi is the best place to taste its classics, from pho to bun cha and cha ca, alongside a growing number of refined contemporary restaurants.
Best time to visit
Autumn, from late September to November, is the loveliest season, with mild, dry weather. Spring, from March to April, is also pleasant. Summers are hot, humid and rainy, and winters, from December to February, can be surprisingly cool and grey.
Getting around
The Old Quarter and the areas around Hoan Kiem Lake are best explored on foot. Ride-hailing apps and taxis are convenient for longer journeys, and the city has opened its first metro lines in recent years. Noi Bai International Airport is around 45 minutes from the centre by car.
Where to stay
Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi, opened in 1901, is one of Asia's great historic hotels. Capella Hanoi, designed by Bill Bensley around an opera theme, is theatrical and intimate, while InterContinental Hanoi Westlake offers pavilions set over the water of West Lake.
Where to eat
Gia offers one of the most refined expressions of modern Vietnamese cuisine. Le Beaulieu at the Metropole is a classic French dining room, and Hibana by Koki at Capella Hanoi is an intimate teppanyaki counter. For street food, look for pho, bun cha and banh cuon in the Old Quarter.
What to see
Hoan Kiem Lake and the Old Quarter are the heart of the city. The Temple of Literature, the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum complex, the One Pillar Pagoda and the Vietnam Museum of Ethnology are essential. Walk around West Lake and the French Quarter's boulevards, and see a water puppet performance. Ha Long Bay and Ninh Binh make excellent excursions.
Practical notes
The currency is the Vietnamese dong. Carry cash for street food and markets. Many nationalities need an e-visa; check current requirements before travel. Weekend evenings see the streets around Hoan Kiem Lake closed to traffic and filled with people.