Jeju on Foot and by Sea: The Olle Trail, the Haenyeo Divers and Hallasan

A path made from a pilgrimage

The Jeju Olle began with a journalist, Suh Myung-sook, a native of the island who walked the Camino de Santiago and wanted a path of the same kind at home. The foundation she started in 2007 now maintains a network of numbered routes, roughly four hundred kilometres in all, that follow the coast, cross fishing villages, farmland and volcanic cones, and range from gentle to demanding.

Choose a single stage rather than a whole itinerary. Route 7 along the south coast is a good first walk: sea cliffs, small harbours and a rhythm that explains the appeal of the trail.

The women who dive

The haenyeo, Jeju’s women free-divers, gather shellfish and seaweed without breathing apparatus, a tradition that UNESCO recognised as intangible heritage in 2016. Many divers are now in their sixties or older, and the practice survives in part through demonstrations for visitors. Watching the haenyeo at work is best done from the shore, quietly, and with a meal of what they bring in.

The mountain

Hallasan, at about 1,950 metres, is South Korea’s highest peak and sits at the centre of the island. Two of its trails, Seongpanak from the east and Gwaneumsa from the north, reach the crater lake at the summit, while shorter routes stop partway and can be done in under a day. Climbing Hallasan deserves an early start and a weather check.

Where to stay

The south coast suits walkers. JW Marriott Jeju Resort & Spa is a low-built cliff-top resort designed by Bill Bensley, close to Olle Route 7. In Jeju City, Grand Hyatt Jeju is a large-scale city base for shorter stays.

Most visitors arrive from the mainland, where Seoul makes the natural first stop.

Sources: Wikipedia: Jeju Olle Trail; Culture Trip: a hiker’s guide to Jeju. Check the official websites for current information.