Phnom Penh
Cambodia · Southeast Asia
Cambodia's riverside capital: the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda, the National Museum of Khmer sculpture and the modern buildings of Vann Molyvann.
Why visit
Why visit Phnom Penh
Go for the two things that cannot be seen at Angkor. The first is the best of Khmer sculpture, which was taken from the temples to the National Museum and stands there at eye level. The second is a living court: the Royal Palace, built from 1866, is still the residence of the king, and its Silver Pagoda has a floor of 5,329 silver tiles.
Go also for a capital with layers. French villas and an art deco market stand beside the buildings of Vann Molyvann, the architect who gave the newly independent country a modern style of its own in the 1960s. Our guide to Phnom Penh sets out three days, and a separate article follows Vann Molyvann's buildings.
Explore
What to see
The Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda. A walled compound of gilded roofs facing the river. The Throne Hall of 1919 has a spire 59 metres high. The Silver Pagoda holds a crystal Buddha and a gold Buddha set with diamonds, and its cloister is painted with the Reamker, the Khmer Ramayana. See our account of the visit.
The National Museum. A red building in Khmer style, designed by George Groslier and opened in 1920 just north of the palace. It holds more than 14,000 objects around a courtyard garden.
Wat Phnom. The temple on the small hill that gave the city its name.
The modern city. The Independence Monument of 1958, the Chaktomuk Conference Hall of 1961 and the National Sports Complex of 1964, all by Vann Molyvann.
The riverfront. Sisowath Quay runs along the Tonle Sap and is at its best in the early evening.
Tuol Sleng and Choeung Ek. The former prison of the Khmer Rouge and the killing field outside the city are sober, necessary visits for anyone who wants to understand the country.
Hotels
Where to stay in Phnom Penh
Rosewood Phnom Penh occupies the top floors of the Vattanac Capital tower, with a bar on a terrace 188 metres above the street. The city's grand colonial hotel and a number of converted villas offer the older alternative. Travellers heading for the coast or the forest will find Six Senses Krabey Island and Shinta Mani Wild in the south-west.
Dining
Where to eat in Phnom Penh
Khmer cooking is milder than Thai and built on freshwater fish, herbs and prahok, a fermented fish paste. Amok, fish steamed in coconut and spices, is the dish most visitors try first. The city also has French bakeries and bistros from the colonial period and a lively restaurant and bar scene.
Experiences
Experiences in Phnom Penh
The Journal
Latest on Phnom Penh
Before you go
Practical information
Best time to visit
The dry season runs from December to April. December and January are the most comfortable months, and March and April the hottest. Rain falls from May to November, mostly in afternoon downpours, and the rivers are at their highest in the autumn.
Getting around
Techo International Airport, which opened to flights on 9 September 2025 and replaced the old airport at Pochentong, lies roughly 20 to 30 kilometres south of the city in Kandal province; allow 45 minutes to an hour for the transfer. The centre is compact. The palace, the museum and the riverfront are within walking distance of one another, and tuk-tuks cover the rest. River ships between Vietnam and Siem Reap call at the city; our guide to Aqua Mekong describes one.
Practical notes
Two full days cover the main sights, and a third allows for the modern architecture or the river. Shoulders and knees must be covered at the Royal Palace and the Silver Pagoda. The palace closes in the middle of the day and for royal ceremonies. Phnom Penh combines with Siem Reap by a short flight or by road.
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