Macau as an Exhibition of Hotel Architecture

Macau is usually described by its gaming revenue. It is more interesting as a collection of buildings. In the space of a few square kilometres, on land reclaimed between two islands, the resort owners of Cotai have spent the past decade commissioning hotels from some of the best-known architects and designers in the world, each trying to outdo the last. The result is unlike anywhere else in Asia, and it can be visited as one would visit an exhibition. Here is what to see, and where to stay to see it.

The building as sculpture: Morpheus

Morpheus, at City of Dreams, was among the last buildings designed under Zaha Hadid. Its steel exoskeleton, wrapped around two towers with voids carved between them, is the most serious piece of architecture in the city. Stay here if the building is the point. OKYTO’s page on Morpheus has the details.

Spectacle: Wynn Palace

Wynn Palace is the opposite approach, a classical tower around a lake of choreographed fountains, entered by gondola, filled with flowers and Qing porcelain. It is extravagant, and it is very well run. See Wynn Palace.

Fashion houses: Grand Lisboa Palace

SJM’s Grand Lisboa Palace contains two hotels designed by fashion houses. The Karl Lagerfeld is the only hotel whose interiors the designer completed, a mixture of Chinoiserie and sharp tailoring. Palazzo Versace Macau, opened later, is as ornate as its name suggests.

All suites: Raffles at Galaxy Macau

Raffles at Galaxy Macau has about 450 suites in two towers linked by glass bridges, a planted lobby and butler service. It is the most comfortable of the newer hotels. Its neighbour Andaz Macau is larger and less expensive, with interiors that refer to old Taipa. See Raffles at Galaxy Macau.

Cinema: W Macau

W Macau – Studio City takes film as its theme, in a resort built around a figure-of-eight Ferris wheel set into the facade.

Beyond Cotai

The resorts are half of Macau. The other half is the old city on the peninsula, a UNESCO World Heritage site of baroque churches, Chinese temples and pastel squares left by four centuries of Portuguese presence, and the villages of Taipa and Coloane, with their Macanese restaurants. The food deserves the journey in itself: the city has two three-star restaurants in the current Michelin guide, afternoon teas such as those at The St. Regis Bar, and it has hosted the ceremonies of Asia’s 50 Best Bars.

Practicalities

Macau is an hour from Hong Kong by ferry, or by road across the bridge that links the two cities with Zhuhai. Two nights are enough for the architecture and several good meals. Weekends and Chinese holidays are crowded and expensive; midweek is calmer. Our Macau guide has the rest.