Hanyangdoseong: Walking the City Wall of Seoul

Seoul became the capital of the Joseon dynasty in 1394, under the name Hanyang. Two years later its founder, King Taejo, had a wall built around it. It followed the ridgelines of the four mountains that surround the old city: Baegak, also called Bugaksan, to the north; Naksan to the east; Namsan to the south; and Inwangsan to the west. Its circuit is 18.6 kilometres.

The wall is called Hanyangdoseong. It was repaired and strengthened through almost the whole of the Joseon period, and the stonework records the changes. The first builders used rough field stones. Under King Sejong in the fifteenth century sections were rebuilt in dressed stone, and the repairs ordered by King Sukjong in 1704 used large, regular square blocks. A walker can see all three within a few hundred metres.

Gates

The wall had four main gates and four smaller ones. Two of the main gates stand today in the middle of traffic: Sungnyemun, the south gate, commonly called Namdaemun, and Heunginjimun, the east gate, known as Dongdaemun. The north gate, Sukjeongmun, is on the mountain. The west gate, Donuimun, was demolished in the early twentieth century and has since been reconstructed near its original site. Of the smaller gates, Changuimun in the north-west and Hyehwamun in the north-east are the starting points for the mountain sections.

Parts of the wall on the flat ground were lost as the city grew, and the mountain sections survived best. The wall was designated a Historic Site in 1963, long stretches have been restored, and it is on Korea’s tentative list for World Heritage status.

The sections

The city has laid out the circuit as a trail in six sections. Four are the main walks.

Baegak. From Changuimun to Hyehwamun, 4.7 kilometres, about three hours. This is the highest and steepest section, climbing by long flights of steps to the summit behind the presidential compound and the palace of Gyeongbokgung. After a North Korean commando raid on Seoul in 1968, public access to the mountain was restricted for about forty years; it reopened in 2007. It gives a fine view over the plan of the old city.

Naksan. From Hyehwamun to Heunginjimun, about an hour. The lowest and gentlest of the four, along a ridge above residential neighbourhoods, with the wall beside the path for much of the way. It suits a short walk at dusk.

Namsan. From Jangchung Gymnasium to Baekbeom Square, about three hours, over the wooded hill that carries the Seoul Tower, with a restored beacon mound near the top.

Inwangsan. From the site of Donuimun to Changuimun, 4 kilometres, about two and a half hours. Bare granite, a stiff climb, and wide views across the palaces towards Namsan.

The two short sections through the centre, around Heunginjimun and Sungnyemun, link the others across the districts where the wall is lost or fragmentary.

For travellers

Few people walk the whole circuit at once. A better plan is Inwangsan and Baegak as one long morning, finishing in the old neighbourhoods north of the palaces, or Naksan at dusk. Paths are well made but steep, with many steps; wear proper shoes and carry water. Some mountain sections have their own opening hours and check points, so confirm current rules on the official Seoul City Wall site before setting out. The Seoul City Wall Museum explains the construction and is free.

Spring and autumn are the best seasons, and clear days after rain give the longest views. A city path on a different scale is Seoullo 7017, the elevated walkway near Sungnyemun. The Four Seasons Hotel Seoul at Gwanghwamun is a convenient base for the northern sections. Our experience page, Walk the Seoul city wall, describes the route we recommend, and the wider city is covered in our Seoul pages.