Watch the tuna auction at Toyosu at dawn

What the experience is

Toyosu Market, on reclaimed land in Tokyo Bay, replaced the old market at Tsukiji in October 2018. It is the city’s central wholesale market for fish, fruit and vegetables. Its best-known event is the daily auction of tuna, fresh and frozen, laid out in rows on the floor so that buyers can judge the quality of the flesh.

The auction usually takes place in the early morning, from about half past five, depending on how many fish are for sale. Buyers inspect the tail cuts with torches and hooks beforehand; then the auctioneers ring handbells and the lots are sold, in seconds each, by hand signal.

Two ways to watch

An upper gallery is open to visitors and looks down on the auction hall through glass, with the sound relayed. The view depends on how early one arrives.

A separate observation area at floor level has been offered to a limited number of visitors a day, allocated by a lottery through the market’s official website. The rules, capacity and application dates change, so check the market’s site before planning.

When to go

The market is closed on Sundays, national holidays and some other days, including several days at New Year; check the market calendar before planning. The first auction of the year, in early January, draws the highest prices and the largest crowds. The auction can be shortened or cancelled when there is little fish to sell.

Good to know

The nearest station is Shijo-mae, on the Yurikamome line, which is joined to the market by covered walkways. The earliest trains may arrive too late for the start of the auction, so a taxi is often needed. Visitors keep to the marked corridors and may not enter the trading floors. Dress warmly: parts of the halls are refrigerated.

The market’s restaurants, many of them moved from Tsukiji, open early and close around midday. A sushi breakfast after the auction is part of the visit, and the well-known counters have queues.

Why OKYTO recommends it

It is a working market, not a show, and it explains where the fish on Tokyo’s counters comes from. The early start is repaid by an empty city and a full morning. Afterwards, go on to the lanes of the outer market at Tsukiji, which stayed where they were.