Watch proboscis monkeys from a boat on the Kinabatangan

What the experience is

The Kinabatangan is the second longest river in Malaysia, flowing about 560 kilometres through the state of Sabah to the Sulu Sea. Its lower course crosses a flood plain of forest, swamp and oxbow lakes, protected as a wildlife sanctuary. Oil palm plantations have taken much of the land on either side, and the animals are concentrated in the strip of forest that remains along the water. That makes them more visible than in most Bornean forests.

Visitors stay in a lodge on the river, usually near the village of Sukau, and go out in small boats with a guide early in the morning and late in the afternoon. The boat follows the bank and turns up narrow tributaries where the trees meet overhead.

What may be seen

Sightings are never guaranteed. The proboscis monkey, with its long nose and pot belly, lives only in Borneo. Groups gather in the trees at the water’s edge before dusk to sleep, and they are seen on most outings. Long-tailed and pig-tailed macaques are common, hornbills of several species cross the river, and saltwater crocodiles lie on the mud banks. Orangutans live in the forest and are seen by the fortunate. Herds of Bornean pygmy elephants move along the river seasonally and appear without warning, but on some trips none is seen.

When to go

The drier months, roughly March to October, are generally best, when animals gather nearer the river. The north-east monsoon brings heavy rain and floods around December and January. Wildlife is present all year.

Good to know

Two nights allow four river outings, which gives a better chance at the rarer animals. Bring binoculars, a rain jacket and long sleeves against insects. Night walks and night cruises are offered at some lodges. The limestone caves of Gomantong, where swiftlet nests are harvested, lie on the way in.

Getting there

The river is reached from Sandakan, on the east coast of Sabah, which has flights from Kota Kinabalu and Kuala Lumpur. The drive to Sukau takes about two hours or more. Lodges arrange transfers by road or by boat.

Why OKYTO recommends it

It is one of the best places in Borneo to see wild animals from a boat, and the visit is comfortable: a boat, a guide and a lodge. The same narrow forest that makes the viewing so good is also a reminder of what has been lost around it.