See sunrise at Angkor Wat, then walk its galleries while it is still early

What the experience is

Angkor Wat was built by King Suryavarman II in the first half of the twelfth century and dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu. A moat 190 metres wide encloses a walled precinct of over 160 hectares, and a causeway leads through three rising enclosures to a central tower 65 metres high, surrounded by four lesser towers. Unusually for a Khmer temple it faces west, so the sun rises behind it.

Visitors arrive before dawn and gather by the pools in front of the temple. The sky lightens behind the towers, and their outline may be reflected in the water if the pools are still and the sky is clear. It is watched by a large crowd, which in the high season can number hundreds of people at the pools, and the sunrise itself cannot be promised: cloud is common in the rainy season.

The reason to come early is what can follow. Many visitors leave for breakfast or for other temples once the sun is up, and for a time the galleries are quieter than at any other hour, though tour groups arrive later in the morning and the temple is never empty. That is the time to walk the outer gallery, whose walls carry hundreds of metres of relief carving. The most famous panel shows the Churning of the Sea of Milk, in which demons and gods pull on a serpent wound round a mountain to produce the elixir of immortality. Other panels show battles from the Indian epics and a procession of the king and his army. Nearly 1,800 figures of celestial women are carved on the walls, each with different hair and jewellery.

When to go

November to February is cool and dry and is the high season, with the largest crowds. From June to October there are afternoon showers, full moats and far fewer people.

Good to know

An Angkor pass is needed, bought online or at the official ticket office; pass types, prices and validity should be checked before travelling. Shoulders and knees must be covered at the upper level, and the temple is a place of worship, so dress and behave accordingly. A licensed guide makes the reliefs intelligible.

Why OKYTO recommends it

The sunrise is the famous part. The hour or two after it is often the better one.