Dine on kaiseki in Kyoto

What the experience is

Kaiseki is the formal, multi-course cuisine of Japan. A dinner consists of a series of small courses served one after another, each on a different dish, over two or three hours. It grew out of the plain meal served before the tea ceremony, whose form was settled in the sixteenth century by the tea master Sen no Rikyu, and out of the banquet cooking of Edo-period restaurants. Kyoto, the old imperial capital, is a centre of the tradition. The term is used in more than one way, and restaurants differ in how closely they follow the classic form.

The order is broadly fixed, though menus vary with the chef. A small appetiser announces the season. A tray of morsels from the mountains and the sea, the hassun, sets the theme. Sliced raw fish follows, then a clear soup in a lidded lacquer bowl, which chefs regard as a test of their kitchen. Then a grilled dish, usually fish, and vegetables simmered separately and served together. Rice, miso soup and pickles signal the end of the savoury part, and fruit or a light sweet closes the meal.

Season governs everything. Ingredients are used at their brief best, garnishes of leaf and blossom anticipate the season by a few weeks, and the vessels matter as much as the food.

Where

The most traditional houses are ryotei, where guests dine in private tatami rooms that open on a garden. Others seat guests at a counter in front of the chef, a style called kappo, which is less formal and lets one watch the work. A ryokan stay normally includes a kaiseki-style dinner served in the room or in a dining room.

When to go

Any season; the menu will be different in each. Autumn and spring are the most celebrated.

Good to know

The leading restaurants are booked well ahead, and some accept reservations from foreign visitors only through a hotel concierge or an agent. Lunch is often a shorter version of the same menu at a lower price and is an easy way to begin. Tell the restaurant about dietary restrictions when booking, since menus are often fixed. Arrive on time, and it is usual to avoid strong perfume, which interferes with the scent of the food.

Why OKYTO recommends it

It is a complete expression of Japanese taste, in food, ceramics, lacquer and the room itself, and a little knowledge helps. Our guide to reading a kaiseki meal explains each course. The mountain inn Miyamasou, north of the city, serves a rustic version built on foraged plants. For where to stay, see our guide to Kyoto’s new hotels.