Cycle the Shimanami Kaido across the Seto Inland Sea

The Shimanami Kaido is the road that links Japan’s main island of Honshu with Shikoku across the Seto Inland Sea, by way of six islands and a chain of long bridges. It opened in 1999. Unlike the other crossings of the Inland Sea, it was built with separate lanes for bicycles and pedestrians on every bridge, and it has become the best-known cycling route in Japan.

What the experience is

The route for cyclists is about 70 kilometres long, from Onomichi, a port town of hillside temples in Hiroshima prefecture, to Imabari in Ehime. It crosses the islands of Mukaishima, Innoshima, Ikuchijima, Omishima, Hakatajima and Oshima. A blue line painted on the road marks the way from one end to the other, and the gradients have been kept gentle: the climbs are the spiral ramps that lead up to each bridge.

The pleasure lies in the alternation. On the bridges, the rider is high above the water, with islands in every direction; on the islands, the road passes citrus groves, shipyards, fishing harbours and small beaches. The last bridge, the Kurushima Kaikyo, is a suspension bridge four kilometres long over a strait known for its tidal currents.

The islands deserve stops. Ikuchijima, the lemon island, has the extravagant temple of Kosanji and a museum devoted to the painter Hirayama Ikuo, and is the home of Azumi Setoda, a ryokan in a restored merchant’s estate that makes the ideal place to break the journey. Omishima has one of the oldest shrines in the region, with a collection of samurai armour.

Bicycles, including electric and road bikes, can be rented at terminals along the route and returned at a different one, and luggage can be sent ahead. An experienced rider can cover the distance in a day; most people are happier taking two.

When to go

Spring and autumn are best. Summer is hot and humid, and winter is cold but usually dry and clear.

Getting there

Onomichi is on the Sanyo line between Okayama and Hiroshima; the shinkansen stops at Shin-Onomichi and at nearby Fukuyama. Ferries link several of the islands with the mainland, which makes it easy to ride only part of the route.

Why OKYTO recommends it

Because it is the most enjoyable way to see the Inland Sea at close quarters, at a speed that suits it. It combines naturally with a voyage aboard guntû, which sails from Onomichi, and with the art islands around Naoshima.