Cruise the Seto Inland Sea aboard guntû

The Seto Inland Sea lies between Japan’s main island of Honshu and the islands of Shikoku and Kyushu, a calm stretch of water scattered with hundreds of islands, fishing villages and shipyards. guntû is a small ship built to travel it slowly. It is usually described as a floating ryokan, and the description is accurate.

What the experience is

The ship has only 19 cabins. It was designed by the architect Yasushi Horibe, known for houses in natural materials with clean lines, and it looks like one of them: a silver hull under a gabled roof, with interiors of pale timber, deep verandas and long benches facing the water. Every cabin has its own terrace, and some have an open-air bath.

The voyages last two or three nights and leave from Onomichi, in Hiroshima prefecture. The ship does not call at ports. It moves between anchorages among the islands, and guests go ashore, when they wish, by tender or speedboat for walks, visits to villages and other excursions that change with the route and the season.

On board, the day is organised around eating and bathing. There is a dining room serving Japanese cuisine based on the fish and vegetables of the Setouchi region, a sushi counter, a lounge for tea and sweets, a bar, communal baths with a view of the sea, a sauna and treatment rooms. At sunset, guests gather on deck with a glass of champagne. The name comes from a small blue crab found in these waters and used locally to flavour soup.

When to go

The Inland Sea is sheltered and the ship sails all year. Spring and autumn are the most comfortable seasons; winter brings clear light and the best seafood.

Getting there

Onomichi is on the Sanyo coast between Okayama and Hiroshima. The nearest shinkansen stations are Shin-Onomichi and Fukuyama, about three and a half to four hours from Tokyo. The ship’s marina is a short transfer from the town.

Why OKYTO recommends it

Because it is one of the few ways to see this sea as it deserves, from the water and without hurry, and because the ship is a remarkable piece of Japanese design. It combines naturally with the art islands, where the Naoshima New Museum of Art opened in 2025, and with a stay at Azumi Setoda.