Nikko Beyond the Shrines: Ice Houses, Moorland and White Water in Two Days
Tochigi's tourism board proposes a summer weekend that skips the temples: a lake, a marsh, a night walk, shaved ice from one of Japan's five ice houses and a morning in a raft on the Kinugawa.
Nikko is known for its World Heritage shrines, but the prefectural tourism board of Tochigi has put together a two-day summer itinerary that leaves them out. It shows how much else the area offers: mountains in the north-west of the prefecture, Lake Chuzenji and Kegon Falls, hot springs from Kinugawa Onsen to Kawaji Onsen, stand-up paddleboarding in summer and snowshoeing in winter.
The first day begins at Lake Chuzenji, the largest lake in Tochigi, which was a summer resort for foreigners in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. There are walking trails along the shore and an excursion boat. The best views come when the cherry blossoms or azaleas are in flower, or when the autumn leaves turn; the lake’s autumn-leaf boat tour is recommended.
The itinerary then moves to the marshlands of Senjogahara and Odashirogahara, about 45 minutes in all. Senjogahara, in Nikko National Park, is one of the best-known marshlands in Japan, with nature trails, some 350 wild plant species, many wild birds and views of Mount Nantai. The evening is given to a guided night hike of about an hour and a half in the park, which offers a chance to see nocturnal creatures and a clear night sky, followed by a night in a ryokan in Nikko.
The second day starts with a local specialty: shaved ice made from Nikko’s natural spring water. Nikko has three of Japan’s five himuro, the traditional ice houses; the other two are in Chichibu and Karuizawa. The spring water is frozen for about two weeks and kept in an ice room all year round, which produces a soft ice. Each shop has its own specialty, from matcha with syrup and sweet bean paste to strawberry or melon syrup.
The finale is white-water rafting at Kinugawa Onsen, which the board calls one of the best attractions of the resort. Visitors paddle a rubber boat through the rapids for about three hours, with the chance to dive from rocks and ride the white water. The board lists three operators; as with any outdoor activity, check current conditions, age limits and booking terms directly with the company.
The route is planned by car, with drives of 20 minutes, one hour and 30 minutes between the main stops, so it suits a rental car or a private driver more than public transport.
Sources
Visit Tochigi, Nikko summer itinerary (2 days, 1 night); Visit Tochigi, Senjugahama and Nikko area.
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