Walk the wall of Kumbhalgarh in the late afternoon

What the experience is

Kumbhalgarh was built in the middle of the fifteenth century by Rana Kumbha, ruler of Mewar, the Rajput kingdom whose later capital was Udaipur. It stands at about 1,100 metres on a ridge of the Aravalli hills, in country of forest and small farms. Its outer wall runs for 36 kilometres along the crests of the hills, with rounded bastions and fortified gates, and is described as one of the longest continuous walls in the world. It encloses reservoirs, fields and hundreds of temples, many of them Jain. In 2013 UNESCO listed it with five other forts as the Hill Forts of Rajasthan.

A visit begins at the main gate. The climb to the palace at the highest point, the Badal Mahal or palace of clouds, is steep and takes about half an hour. From the top there is a view on one side over the wooded hills of Mewar and on the other across the plains towards the desert. Visitors can walk along part of the wall from the fort; how much of it is open and safe changes, so ask at the gate.

The late afternoon is usually the best time, when the stone turns gold, though the fort closes at sunset or before and cannot be assumed to be open after dark. Maharana Pratap, the Rajput hero who refused to submit to the Mughal emperor Akbar, was born in the fort, and it was a refuge of the rulers of Mewar whenever their capitals in the plain were threatened.

When to go

October to March is the season.

Good to know

The drive from Udaipur takes about two hours through the hills. Most travellers combine the fort with the Jain temple of Ranakpur, within about an hour’s drive, in a long day from Udaipur, or with a night in one of the country hotels near the fort. Opening and closing times, and any evening sound and light show, should be checked locally.

Why OKYTO recommends it

The forts of Jaipur and Jodhpur are seldom empty. This one, with a wall that is longer than either, is generally quieter. In Udaipur, Raffles Udaipur occupies an island in a lake outside the city, and the Maharajas’ Express has itineraries that include Udaipur.