A Design-Led Guide to Tokyo

The modern city, in a few buildings

Tokyo’s architecture is best understood through a handful of landmarks rather than a long itinerary. Kenzo Tange’s Yoyogi National Gymnasium, built for the 1964 Olympic Games, remains one of the most expressive structures of the post-war period, its suspended roofs still striking more than half a century later. A short distance away, the Meiji Jingu forest offers the opposite experience: an entirely planted landscape that now reads as ancient woodland.

In Ueno Park, the National Museum of Western Art is Le Corbusier’s only building in Japan, while in Marunouchi the restored red-brick Tokyo Station faces a district of polished towers. Nearby, Rafael Viñoly’s Tokyo International Forum is worth crossing simply for its glass hall, one of the city’s great interior spaces.

Omotesando and Aoyama

No street in Tokyo concentrates contemporary architecture quite like Omotesando. The flagship stores along the avenue and its side streets have become a showcase for leading architects, among them Toyo Ito’s building for Tod’s and Herzog & de Meuron’s crystalline store for Prada in Aoyama. The pleasure is in walking slowly, looking up, and then turning into the quieter residential lanes behind the main road.

At the far end of the avenue, the Nezu Museum is essential. Kengo Kuma’s building, completed in 2009, is approached along a bamboo-lined path, and its low roof and large glass openings draw the garden into the galleries. The museum’s collection of pre-modern Japanese and East Asian art and its extensive garden make it one of the calmest places in the area.

Roppongi and contemporary design

Within the grounds of Tokyo Midtown, 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT is a small design centre founded by Issey Miyake and designed by Tadao Ando, which opened in 2007. Its folded steel roof was inspired by Miyake’s idea of “a piece of cloth”, and much of the building lies below ground. It has no permanent collection; the programme of changing exhibitions is the reason to go, so it is worth checking what is on before visiting.

Craft, old and new

To understand the Japanese attachment to everyday objects, visit the Japan Folk Crafts Museum in Komaba, founded in 1936 by Soetsu Yanagi, the thinker behind the mingei movement. Housed in a traditional-style building, it presents ceramics, textiles, lacquer and woodwork made by anonymous craftspeople for daily use.

For a more practical encounter with craft, Kappabashi, between Ueno and Asakusa, is the city’s kitchenware district, with specialist shops selling knives, ceramics, lacquerware and professional tools. Across Tokyo, long-established shops in areas such as Nihonbashi continue to specialise in a single craft, often over several generations.

Where to stay

For a design-minded stay, Aman Tokyo is a natural reference. Designed by the late Kerry Hill, it translates the proportions and materials of the traditional Japanese house into a high-rise setting, from the washi-lined lobby on the 33rd floor to suites finished in wood, stone and shoji screens. Its location in Otemachi also places it close to the Imperial Palace gardens and within easy reach of every district in this guide.

Eating with the same attention to detail

The qualities that define Tokyo’s design culture, precision, restraint and respect for materials, are just as visible at the table. The city’s specialist counters, where a single cook prepares sushi, tempura or kaiseki in front of a handful of guests, are as much an expression of craft as any building. Many are small and fully booked well in advance, so it is worth planning reservations before arrival.