See Prambanan in the late afternoon and stay for the Ramayana ballet

What the experience is

Prambanan is a group of ninth-century Hindu temples about 17 kilometres north-east of Yogyakarta. The central tower, dedicated to Shiva, is 47 metres high, with the towers of Brahma and Vishnu on either side. The experience has two parts: a visit to the temples in the afternoon, and a performance of the Ramayana in the evening.

The temples

Arrive in the afternoon, well before closing time, which varies and falls around sunset or earlier. Climb the stair of the Shiva temple and walk round its gallery. The carved panels on the balustrade tell the Ramayana in order: Rama’s exile, the abduction of his wife Sita by the demon king Ravana, and the monkey army that helps to win her back. The story continues on the Brahma temple. In the low light the stone turns from grey to gold.

The performance

The Ramayana has been staged at Prambanan since 1961 as a Javanese dance drama, without spoken words, to a gamelan orchestra, with a large cast in court costume. In the dry season, from about May to October, it is performed on an open-air stage with the floodlit temples behind the dancers, on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays; if rain threatens, the show is moved into the indoor Trimurti theatre. From November to April the performance is held indoors, where the temple backdrop is not part of it. Other shows, such as the story of Roro Jonggrang, are staged on other nights.

When to go

For the open-air stage, choose a date between May and October. July and August are the busiest, and booking ahead is advisable. Performances follow a weekly timetable and change with the season, so check the schedule before fixing dates.

Good to know

The temple park and the theatre have separate entrances and tickets. The show begins in the evening, and there is time for an early dinner between the visit and the performance. Seats nearer the centre of the stage give the better view of the temples behind. A summary of the plot is usually provided, and knowing the outline of the story helps.

Getting there

Prambanan is about half an hour by car from the centre of Yogyakarta. A car and driver for the afternoon and evening is the practical choice, since the performance ends late.

Why OKYTO recommends it

It is rare to see a story on a ninth-century wall and then watch it performed beside the same building, by dancers trained in a court tradition that never lost it. The evening connects the monument to the living culture of Java.