What to Eat in Ise: Spiny Lobster, Tekonezushi and the Rice Cake of Akafuku
Ise's table runs from the sea to the shrine street: spiny lobster in the cold months, marinated fish on rice, grilled clams, a rice cake served the same way for over 300 years, and abalone brought up by the ama.
The Ise-Shima area was once called Miketsu Kuni, the land that provided food to the imperial court, and its cooking still draws on the sea. The Japan National Tourism Organization suggests a two-day itinerary built around food, culture and history, with Ise-jingu, Ise lobster and the pearl trade as its three highlights.
The best-known ingredient is the Ise lobster, the Japanese spiny lobster, a high-end delicacy that JNTO says is best from October to April, when the cold sea makes it sweeter. Ise-Shima’s own tourism site adds other seasonal seafood: Matoya oysters, winter tiger blowfish known locally as anori fugu, and abalone harvested by the ama divers. It also names Matsusaka beef as the brand beef of the area, served as shabu-shabu, sukiyaki or steak.
Among the local dishes, tekonezushi is marinated lean fish on vinegared rice, with a mild marinade that suits people who dislike strong fish flavours, and each restaurant makes its own version. Oshizushi is layered sushi pressed in a wooden block, often made with Ise saury. Ise clams are grilled, and Ise udon is known for a rich sauce that starts spicy and finishes sweet and smooth.
Sweets are served near the shrine. Akafuku, a pounded rice cake topped with red bean paste, has been served the same way for over 300 years according to JNTO; the Ise-Shima site says the company was founded in 1707 and has its main store in Oharai-machi. That street, with Okage Yokocho beside it, is the food district of the Inner Shrine. Oharai-machi has an 800-metre stone pavement along the Isuzu River, and Okage Yokocho is a gourmet street styled after a traditional Japanese town, with shops selling Ise specialties. It stands in front of the Jingu Kaikan Mae bus stop.
For restaurants, JNTO notes that many are clustered in the downtown area near Iseshi Station. For the sea itself, Ise-Shima offers an Ama Hut experience, where divers cook seafood lunches in seaside huts. Menus, seasons and opening days change, so check each venue’s official site before planning a meal.
Sources
Japan National Tourism Organization, Food and Culture in Ise; Ise-Shima Tourism; JNTO, Ise-Shima National Park.
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